WASHINGTON — Opening a restaurant was always a goal for Anna Bran-Leis, but a few years ago, that dream seemed out of reach.
“There was a period of time where they tell you to make your final plans,” said Bran-Leis, who battled cancer for about four and a half years. “We had reached a very low point. It was really bleak.”
About a year ago, however, Bran-Leis’ health began to take a turn for the better, thanks to an experimental drug trial. And on March 30, 2017, the chef’s dream finally became a reality.
Taqueria del Barrio, in D.C.’s Petworth neighborhood, is the city’s newest restaurant to tackle traditional Mexican food. Alongside a list of classic margaritas and creative Latin cocktails, diners can find everything from seared beef tongue tacos to grilled cactus paddles melted with Oaxaca cheese.
Bran-Leis may be green to D.C.’s restaurant scene, but she has been an active member of the city’s food community for several years. In 2010, she, along with her husband, Shawn Leis, launched the food truck business, DC Empanadas, which was one of the first 10 food trucks in the District.
A few years later, the Springfield, Virginia, couple expanded their empanada operation to a stall at Union Market.
“This [restaurant] is what I wanted to do originally, but we had to wait. We didn’t have a half-million dollars in the back seat of the car at the time,” Bran-Leis said.
Then, came the health hurdle. Finding the extra energy and motivation to pour into a new business while fighting for her life further delayed Bran-Leis’ restaurant plans.
“It definitely put the restaurant on a back burner. She didn’t want to start this until she was on the upswing and better and looking toward 100 percent health,” Shawn Leis said.
Bran-Leis admits some days are better than others, but overall, the business owner and mom of two is in “a really good place” right now, and is channeling her newfound stamina into the taqueria.
Sandwiched between Slim’s Diner and Hank’s Cocktail Bar, Bran-Leis says she wants Taqueria del Barrio to be “that neighborhood place that’s accessible for everybody.”
Her intent is to strike a balance between the authentic mom-and-pop taquerias that have limited seating and few beverage options, and D.C.’s more upscale and expensive restaurants.
At Taqueria del Barrio, all 13 varieties of tacos cost $3 each, as do the empanadas ($3.85), taquitos, tamales and picaditas. Happy hour margaritas ring in at $5 and dinner platters are all priced under $15.
“I know what it’s like to be young and broke in D.C.,” said Bran-Leis. “My first job was on The Hill, so I know what it’s like to be a poor intern.”
Complete with tattoo-like graffiti images and a full-wall mural of Our Lady of Guadalupe, the décor in the 92-seat restaurant reflects the taquerias of Mexico City.
Taqueria del Barrio is only open for dinner service, but plans for weekend brunch are in the works. Bran-Leis says she is also open to weekday lunch service, depending on demand — but for now, she’s got plenty to keep her busy.
“We’re just your typical, average suburban couple with a couple of kids, three dogs, a restaurant, a food truck and a food stall, trying to keep it together.”
Taqueria del Barrio is located at 821 Upshur St., NW.
