WASHINGTON –Growing up in central Pennsylvania, I often felt trapped in a society secluded from the rest of world, far removed from more progressive cultures. Sure, I was surrounded by miles of uninterrupted, natural beauty, but creative, forward-thinking outlets were few and far between.
But what the region may lack in some regards, it makes up for with its craft beer culture. In fact, central Pennsylvania has been at the forefront of America’s craft beer revolution. In 1996, places such as Bullfrog Brewery, Tröegs Brewing Company, and Victory Brewing Company all opened their doors during one of the most pivotal times in the American craft beer industry.
That particular trifecta helped to formulate my understanding of, and passion for, craft beer. When planning a visit to my grandparents’ house this past holiday season, I decided to use my long journey up Route 15 to my advantage: I made a few stops at Pennsylvania’s lesser-known breweries. Here’s what I experienced.
Bullfrog Brewery, Williamsport, Pennsylvania
In the almost 12 years since I moved away from Williamsport, my hometown has changed considerably. It used to remind me of one of those generalized Midwestern towns – once industry left Williamsport, much of the positive energy left with it.
However, making such an association now is inaccurate and misrepresentative — especially considering the positive effect craft beer has had on the town’s economy and culture.
For many reasons, my old friend The Bullfrog was the first stop along my Pennsylvania beer adventure. Like many newer craft breweries, The Bullfrog brews a significant number of Belgian-influenced styles, in addition to the more standardized American IPAs and stouts. When I stopped by, it was these American-style beers that were the most impactful.
Edgar IPA, named after the American writer Edgar Allan Poe, possesses the characteristics of a quintessential American IPA. Punchy aromatics of herbaceous pine and orange citrus dominate the nose and carry through into the flavor, while brisk hop bitterness accentuates a dry, pleasing finish. I also found out that Edgar IPA is a great accompaniment to steak sandwiches, making my lunch utterly complete.
Selin’s Grove Brewing Company, Selinsgrove, Pennsylvania
Downtown Selinsgrove is a picturesque American small town. All along Market Street, visitors will find restaurants, small hotels, an independent boutique or two, and of course, a brewpub.
Nestled within the confines of a 19th century mansion (and a former home to Pennsylvania governors) is Selin’s Grove Brewing Company, a small brewpub that pays homage to tradition while constantly striving to expand upon it.
With respect to the Selin’s Grove lineup, Belgian tripels are equally at home next to American IPAs, as they are Scottish ales.
On such a cold, late December day, I needed something hearty, viscous and warming. The first order of business was ordering a cup of the brewery’s delicious vegetarian chili, but the second and obviously most important order of business, was ordering a glass of St. Fillian’s Wee Heavy on cask.
All one needs is a brisk whiff of the brew, just inches from the glass for a hit of intensely sweet flavors with bready aromas of Golden Promise, an heirloom base malt from the U.K.
Gentle carbonation from proper cask conditioning enlivens nuances of warm biscuits and burnt caramel. The beer also has an underlying perfume of fig and plum among its intense warmth. In moments of bleak winter gloom, I lust for beers such as this.
Pizza Boy Brewing Company/Al’s of Hampden, Enola, Pennsylvania
The products at Pizza Boy Brewing Company have the tendency to obliterate style categorizations. Beers such as a wet-hopped Grisette and an American wild ale with grape must, hibiscus flowers, and a Citra/Galaxy dry hop, are two examples that showcase how the brewery is redefining beer. Visitors: expect to have your palate challenged. And yes, there’s pizza.
After the hour long drive from Selinsgrove, I knew I needed a good kick in the teeth to shake off the blustery cold and wake up my palate. My first beer was the West Shore IPA. Initial impressions of dank, herbaceous, musty and deliciously vegetal hop aromatics bursting out of the glass most definitely put the “west” in West Shore IPA. The beer had a pleasingly bitter, dry, quenching finish, that ultimately culminated in a vivid expression of hop character.
Not surprisingly, switching gears at Pizza Boy was a seamless task, one that required nothing more than an open mind (or an insatiable thirst). As delicious as the West Shore IPA was, what undoubtedly stole the show was a beer named Sunny Side Up.
Ink black in appearance, Sunny Side Up is a gorgeous, breakfast-inspired oatmeal Imperial stout, brewed with locally-roasted coffee from Harrisburg’s own Little Amps. It was an obvious choice for my final beer. I honestly can’t remember the last time I had a coffee stout with such a harmonious balancing of flavor. No acrid, burnt and/or stale flavors were present, just huge wafts of oatmeal-smoothed, coffee-infused, dark chocolate-roasted perfection.
Let’s just say the growler I brought home didn’t last long.
Editor’s Note: Rob Fink lives in Arlington, Va., and is an avid homebrewer. Follow him on Twitter. Follow @WTOP and @WTOPliving on Twitter.
