Scott Greenberg offers his suggestions for Wine of the Week.
Georgia is one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world. There is even a popular theory that the word wine itself comes from the Georgian word “gvino,” which the Romans shortened to vino and the French shortened further to vin. Furthermore, there is evidence that Roman invaders learned certain wine making techniques from the Georgians and took those methods back to Italy.
That evidence includes the discovery of ancient wine making objects, including clay amphorae that date back to around 5,000 BC, in region that is now modern-day Georgia. In addition, the area boasts more than 500 hundred wine grape varietals — vitis vinifera – many of which are only found in Georgia. These grapes thrive in the rich, alluvial soil-laden valleys that are nestled in the shadows of the Caucasus Mountain range. The area also shares the same “viticultural latitude” as other well-known wine growing regions, such as the Piedmont appellation in Italy, the Rhone Valley in France and the Rioja region in Spain. The temperate climate provides warm sunny days and cool nights that allow the grapes to develop firm tannins and great acidity.
Georgia has four main wine producing regions. Kakheti, the largest wine producing region located the south east; Karlti, in the center of the country, where the capital city Tbilisi lies; Imereti, the gastronomic capital known for its signature varietal Tzitzka; and Racha-Lechkhumi, Georgia’s smallest wine region, famous for its natural semi-sweet wines.
The wine making culture in Georgia is an interesting blend of traditional methods — which includes using quevris (large earthenware jars that are buried underground, with just the neck exposed), in which the entire wine making process takes place, including initial fermentation right through to maturation — alongside modern wine making techniques, so quality is improving at a phenomenal pace. Best of all, Georgian wines offer an opportunity to discover unique grape varietals from one of the oldest wine regions at a reasonable price.
(Photo by Joe Raedle/Getty Images)
Photo by Joe Raedle/Getty Images
Saperavi is one of Georgia’s most important red wine making varietals. The 2013 Teliani Valley Saperavi from the Kakheti region, is unique because not only is the skin red, but so is the flesh of the grape, which produces a dark, inky color. This version has complex aromas of dark plum, tobacco and black pepper on the nose. The mouthfeel has medium-weight to it, supporting flavors of black cherry cola, black plum and blackcurrant jam. A good choice with soft, creamy cheeses. $11
(Courtesy of Potomac Wines)
Courtesy of Potomac Wines
Fruit, from the Kartli, Imereti and Kakheti wine districts, is handpicked and hand sorted for the Bagrationi 1882 Non-Vintage Classic Brut from Tbilisi. The grapes are fermented on the lees in stainless steel tanks at cool temperatures and carbonated via the Charmat Methode. This process tends to preserve the fruit flavors while adding some texture and complexity to the wine. Scents of melon and citrus are found on the nose while flavors of green apple, nectarine and honeydew melon are carried across the palate on medium-sized bubbles. Just a touch of ever-so-slight sweetness gives the wine good depth. $15
If you’re looking for something light and bright, the 2013 Pheasant’s Tears Chinuri is a beautifully crisp white wine, made from the Chinuri grape. Vinified without oak, this medium-bodied white wine has great structure with aromas of acacia flowers, jasmine, peach and grapefruit. Abundant acidity keeps the bright flavors of tropical fruits, nectarine and lime fresh and the finish crisp. $18
(Courtesy of Pheasant’s Tears)
Courtesy of Pheasant’s Tears
I am not a fan of “orange” wines. I think they are generally overrated and over-sold, but in a brilliant marketing move, Georgian winemakers call their version “amber” wines, and I found one I really like. The 2012 Schuchmann ‘Vinoterra’ Kisi is made from the indigenous Kisi variety grown in Georgia’s Kakheti region. This complex and dark white wine was fermented in Qvevri and matured in oak. It sports a beautiful dark amber color and a bouquet of orange blossoms, almonds and sweet spices. The refreshingly dry palate features flavors of dried apricot, citrus and stone fruit that leads to a long, layered finish. Try this Kisi with grilled chicken, turkey or pasta. $18
(Courtesy of Georgian Wine House)
