Scott Greenberg
WTOP Wine Contributor
WASHINGTON — Last week, I wrote an online column recommending wine pairings for Thanksgiving. Many of my well-thought out wine
recommendations were in the $15 per bottle price range.
However, after reading some of
the online comments, I came to two conclusions; first, I have a thick skin. Second,
many people would like to see recommendations for wines in the $10-or-less range.
The latter is a tall order. All of the fixed costs that go in to producing an average
“weekday” bottle of wine — grape growing or acquisition, labor, equipment, legal
resources, storage, shipping and distribution — add up to around $9 per bottle. That
does not leave a lot of wiggle room if you’re wine shop is only charging $10 per
bottle.
But it also depends on the quality of the juice going into the product. Massed-produced
wines can get their costs down another $1 or $2 per bottle, but the quality of the wine
might suffer. So, what other costs can be trimmed in order to get a decent bottle of
wine for $10 or less? Distribution.
Ever since the repeal of Prohibition, there has been a three-tier system of alcohol
distribution in the United States. The three tiers are producers, distributors and
retailers (i.e.: the wine shop). The basic structure of the system is that wine
producers can sell their products only to wholesale distributors, who then sell the
wine to retailers, who, in turn, may sell to consumers.
Some states have become their own alcoholic beverage control jurisdictions. In these
states, part or all of the distribution tier, and sometimes also the retailing tier,
are operated by the state government itself. Think Utah and Pennsylvania to name a few.
These states may also appoint contractors to operate under their authority.
Washington State does not require any form of three-tier system is the state of
Washington. There, retailers may purchase alcoholic beverages directly from producers,
negotiate volume discounts and warehouse their inventory themselves. The wine shops in
the District of Columbia can sole-source wines directly from wineries if — and only if
— the wines are not currently provided by a local distributor.
But it does not take a lot of imagination to conclude that wines that are sourced
directly from the winery — cutting out the proverbial middle man — and can be offered
at a more competitive price than if they went through the normal three tier system. The
relationships that wine shops develop with certain wineries provide consumers with some
unique wines for less money, resulting in truly exceptional values.
Here are a few exceptional values to keep on hand during the holidays:
Non-vintage Rondel Brut Cava from Spain
This light-bodied bubbly from Spain is more fruity than dry, but this “extreme brut” is
full of floral scents of white lilies and filled with soft peach, nectarine and roasted
nut flavors. Briny and fresh it would be fantastic with shrimp or scallops. Total Wine,
McLean, Virginia, $9.
2013 Chardonnay ‘Della Venezie’ by Allegrini
Here is a great value for a delicious un-oaked Chardonnay from northern Italy. It’s
made by Allegrini, the famous Amarone producer. The ripeness of the fruit comes through
with an intense aroma of apple and pear, enlivened by a subtle citrus boost. Graceful
and harmonious, it is striking for its clear-cut, pristine palate. It has considerable
body, supported by a crisp acidity. Available at MacArthur Beverages in D.C., $10.
2012 Chanarmuyo Estate Malbec from Argentina
This lovely Malbec offers up soft tannins supporting flavors of velvety plum and
blackberry fruit. Just a hint of smoke finds its way onto the medium-based finish.
Available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill in D.C., $10.
2013 Legado Munoz Tempranillo from Spain
This Tempranillo has firm tannins and offers up a flavorful profile of dark berry
fruit, earthy spices and just a little pepper. Available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill
in D.C., $10.
Cloud Break Pinot Noir from California
The Cloud Break Pinot Noir has charming aromas of raspberry and strawberry with notes
of vanilla. Oak aging rounds out the wine and gives it body. Flavors of fresh
strawberry, cherry, and raspberry fill the palate. The wine is elegant and crowd
pleasing. Great with Salmon. Available at MacArthur Beverages in D.C., $9.
Ropiteau Pinot Noir Vin de Pays from Vin de Pays, Southern France
Established in 1848, Ropiteau Freres has a long history of making great Pinot Noir.
This super value is proof positive. Bright cherry and berry fruit is complemented by
earth tones and a smooth soft finish. Excellent with a Lamb Stew. Available at Total
Wine, McLean, Virginia, $10.
Radius Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington State
Fresh, Black Cherry, Chocolate, Medium-bodied Washington- Aromas and flavors of
currant, black cherry and red jammy fruit. Hints of toasty oak lead to a long finish in
this bold wine. Enjoy with red meats, game, sharp cheeses and dark chocolate. Available
at Total Wine, McLean, Virginia, $10.
2013 Las Lilas Vinho Verde from Portugal
A bright, refreshing, young Portuguese white, tinted with lime zest and tropical fruit
and accented by effervescence. Available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, $10.
2012 Legado Munoz Grenache From Spain
The Legado Munoz Grenache is light to medium bodied with notes of red and black
berries, and a hint of spice. Available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, $10.
2012 Chanarmuyo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc from Argentina
This is the perfect burger wine, a ripe red berry Cabernet with silky tannins and a
long finish. Available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, $10.
2013 Merum Monastrell from Spain
Peppery tannins, raspberries and earth, a perfect food pair for BBQ, stew, anything
meat. Available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, $10.
2010 Ma Gini Toscano Rosso Sangiovese from Italy
A young Sangiovese with fairly strong tannins, notes of anise, sun-dried tomatoes and
herbs. Available at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill, $10.
And in case you want to splurge…
2012 Cotes du Rhone rouge by Domaine de Mourchon from France
This is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40 percent Syrah. This Cotes du Rhone offers
vibrant black raspberry, toasted spice, licorice and hints of violets to go with a
medium-bodied, supple and seamless profile on the palate. Possessing excellent
ripeness, as well as an excellent mid-palate, it’s a rock-solid bottle of wine to drink
over the coming five to seven years. Available at MacArthur Beverages, $12.
