Wine of the week: Wines to crab out with

Summer is quickly winding down and I still haven’t had my annual summer Crabfest!

While nothing is “normal” about this summer holiday, the one thing that gives me a sense of normalcy is sitting down with friends in the backyard – albeit at a safe distance — cracking open a few dozen crabs and enjoying good conversation and crisp wines.

Now, I was not always a big Blue Crab fan. Growing up in California, when someone said, “Let’s eat crabs,” it usually involved the large Dungeness variety, and one crab was definitely enough to satisfy the hungriest of appetites.

So imagine my surprise during my first year in D.C. when I was invited over to a friend’s home for a summer crab fest. A large steaming pot was proudly brought to a folding table on the deck, and the contents were ceremoniously dumped onto brown construction paper covering the surface.

The contents, as I have come to appreciate over the years, were blue crabs, a much more diminutive version of the West Coast crustacean I had known and loved.

But as I started to pick my way through the pile – both literally and figuratively – I wondered out loud why anyone would go to all this trouble for just a few morsels of crab meat per crab. That’s when my host explained that the time-honored tradition of picking blue points is as much about sitting around the table, shooting the breeze, eating the coleslaw and the boiled corn, and, of course, drinking beer.

The beer? Wait a minute … I get that beer might be the customary go-to beverage at a crab-a-palooza, but there are plenty of crab-friendly wines that have the ability to cut through the Old Bay and stand up to the tasty goodness of the crab meat itself.

Whether you like your crabs in cakes, sautéed in soft shells or picking the blues, there is definitely a wine out there for you!

So, just round up a mess of crabs, invite some friends and neighbors over, and don’t forget the wine.

One of my favorite summertime thirst-quenching wines is the Non-vintage Casa Bianchi New Age White Wine from Argentina. It is also my go-to top choice for cooling the heat of crabs. Pour the well-chilled wine over ice and then add a squeeze of lime for an incredibly refreshing aperitif. A blend of 90% Torrontes and 10% sauvignon blanc, the citrusy-based wine provides a wonderful backbone for flavors of peach and nectarine to shine through. The slight fizz gives a revitalizing boost to the palate. $10

If you like your pickers with a lot of Old Bay seasoning (and who doesn’t), you’ll need an off-dry white wine that can take the heat, such as the 2017 Clos Chapon Vouvray Demi Sec from the Loire Valley of France. The nose shows off a brilliant bouquet of ripe stone fruits, but it is the exceptional body that makes this wine work so well with the crab and Old Bay combo. The mouthfeel is crisp and bright and has enough acidity to cut through the richness of the crab and just a touch of sweetness to offset the spicy accents of the Old Bay. The balance between the ripe fruit – think nectarine, peach and pear – and the abundant crisp acidity is perfect for crab pickers. $15

Consider adding a bit of color to the festivities with the 2018 Chateau d’Esclans Cotes de Provence Whispering Angel Rosé from Provence, France, the proverbial home of rosé wines. It’s a wonderful choice, particularly if you like your crab without a ton of seasoning. The nose is fresh and lively with bright notes of raspberry and strawberry. The wine is completely dry and features pure fruit flavors of wild strawberry, red cherry and white peach on the palate. This pale pink beauty ends with a long, clean, crisp finish. $17

If the succulent meat is your ultimate reward for picking crabs, then celebrate the success of your labors with the 2018 Duckhorn Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley. Scents of grapefruit and orange blossom burst through on the fragrant bouquet. The slightly creamy body carries flavors of tropical fruit and nectarine but the abundant acidity that supports all of those wonderful fruit flavors will cut through the richness of the crab like a laser, refreshing the palate between sips and getting your mouth ready for the next wonderful bite. $22


Listen and subscribe to the “The Vine Guy” podcast on Podcast One


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