I am not one to often argue the finer points of an idiom, but when Captain Cook, on his 1770 voyage to New Zealand, dubbed the inlet at the eastern end of the Wairau Valley, “Cloudy Bay,” he definitely got it wrong. Good thing, too, since Cloudy Bay is both a wonderfully sunny place to grow grapes and home to Cloudy Bay Vineyards.
Cloudy Bay Vineyards was established by David Hohnen in 1985 at the northern end of the South Island of New Zealand, in the Wairau Valley of the Marlborough appellation.
Hohnen was no stranger to the New Zealand wine scene, having already earned a reputation as the proprietor of Cape Mentelle Vineyards in the Margaret River region. However, the difference between the two regions is vast. The Wairau Valley enjoys the longest hours of sunshine in the country and maritime influences provide cool, clear nights. This combination results in ideal conditions for growing cool-climate grape varietals.
But it’s also the terroir — the soil — that gives the wine a sense of place. Millions of years of successive flooding and rearrangement of the Wairau have deposited glacial outwash, forming a valley floor with sedimentary soils varying from washed stone to gravel, alluvial silt and clay. This provides beneficial nutrients in the porous soil and allows water to drain away, leaving behind minerals that are absorbed in the vine roots, and consequently, the fruit.
In 2003, Cloudy Bay Vineyards was bought by the multinational luxury goods firm LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. But regardless of new ownership, Cloudy Bay’s philosophy remains the same; produce the highest quality wines from the best fruit grown in the most appropriate vineyard locations. This dedication to detail results in a distinctive style that shines through in every bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that Cloudy Bay produces.
The Marlborough region is blessed with a unique terroir and a cool maritime climate that results in large diurnal swings in temperature (the difference between daytime highs and nighttime lows). These conditions are the foundation for producing the classic expression found in the 2019 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks, prolonged exposure to yeast and minimal intervention by the winemakers combine to yield a wine full of aromatics that include mango, guava and lemon/lime citrus scents. The weighty mouthfeel is slightly atypical for a sauvignon blanc, but the juicy flavors of grapefruit, tropical fruits and nectarine are hallmark traits of the varietal. Abundant acidity and mineral undertones combine on the crisp, refreshing finish and would be a brilliant pairing with fresh oysters. $24
A judicious use of oak is used in the barrel fermentation of the 2016 Cloudy Bay Chardonnay. Most of the wine is allowed to go through malolactic fermentation. This secondary fermentation leads to an appealing mix of ripe citrus, white fig and toasted hazelnuts on the bouquet and creamy flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, green apple and roasted nuts on the well-balanced frame. The light touch of oak highlights notes of baked bread on the medium-bodied finish and would pair well with Pasta Primavera or roasted halibut. $30
In 1989, Cloudy Bay decided to produce their first pinot noir, and the winemaking team has been obsessed with the varietal ever since. It is the only red wine varietal in the Cloudy Bay portfolio and they believe it is the only red grape wine that grows flawlessly in the Marlborough climate. The 2015 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir is painstakingly crafted from 40 unique plots from 25 different vineyards. Thoughtful blending of the lots leads to a wine with enticing aromas of red berries, boysenberry and baking spices. The delicate palate sports lovely flavors of red cherries, red plums and cinnamon that flow into a well-integrated finish that highlights earthy notes of dark strawberries and mineral undertones. This lighter-styled pinot would pair beautifully with grilled salmon or roasted pork loin. $44
Te Koko is the indigenous name for Cloudy Bay and is characterized by the vineyard as the “wild child” of the portfolio. It is a full-bodied alternative styled sauvignon blanc that undergoes both barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation, inoculated with wild yeast. It is then bottled aged and released as a fully matured wine. The 2015 Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc delivers a rather intricate and intense bouquet combining lemon curd, acacia flowers and ripe peach. In the mouth, complex flavors of orange blossom, tropical fruits, white peach and grapefruit attack in waves and layers. Notes of ginger and spice, underlined by vibrant acidity, dominate the clean, balanced finish. The complexity and depth of this wine would make it an excellent choice to enjoy with poached lobster or steamed mussels. $45
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