When life hands you lemons, you typically make lemonade — or so the saying goes. But when the oil crisis hit Phil and Chris Rose in the 1970s, they decided to grow grapes instead.
Up until that time, the Roses were growing alfalfa for export to Japan. But after the oil shock hit, it made harvesting and drying their crop unprofitable.
So, the Roses took a bold step and looked for an alternative use for their land. They decided to plant grapes. And what a bold step it was.
Until then, the fertile land along the Wairau River (pronounced “why-raow”), in the Marlborough region of New Zealand, was relegated to mostly cash crops and hay.
After battling some major objections around land use, Phil and Chris finally gained consent and started establishing their vineyards in 1978.
It turns out the edge of the Wairau River is a special place for growing grapes. It’s a unique place that combines the very best of Marlborough’s soil, climate and terrain. They were true pioneers.
Soon, other farmers in the area followed their example, and before long, many of the same people who originally objected to the Roses’ vineyard vision were asking them for advice on planting their own vineyards.
The Roses contributed to the major transformation of the Marlborough region, helping turn a sleepy farming community into one of the most important wine-growing regions in New Zealand.
They grew and sold their grapes for several years, but in 1991, they decided to take another big leap and started making wine from their own vineyards. Thus, the Wairau River label was born.
Currently, all five Rose children are deeply connected to this Marlborough winery and, along with their partners, are involved in the family wine business.
Each family member plays a key role in the business, from viticulture and winemaking to finance, administration and the running of the extremely popular Wairau River Cellar Door (tasting room) and Restaurant.
I had the good fortune of meeting up with Phil Rose in the bustling Cellar Door on a recent trip to the region and tasting a remarkable lineup of their wines.
Here are a few that have made it “up north” to our continent.
New Zealand has definitely put its mark on producing value-driven, high-quality sauvignon blanc wines. The 2019 Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region is a prime example of how good an affordable bottle of this variety can be.
This version features scents of tropical fruit, citrus and grassy notes on the nose. Ripe flavors of passion fruit, guava and pear exhibit fresh intensity upfront and all the way throughout the crisp finish. All you need is a plate of fresh shucked oysters and an ice bucket. $15
It’s always fun to be reminded that New Zealand is so much more than just sauvignon blanc and pinot noir — not that there’s anything wrong with that. But sometimes I forget that there are other notable varieties being produced Down Under, such as the oh-so delicious 2018 Wairau River Pinot Gris.
This versatile and food-friendly wine had me swooning with charming flavors of white peach, pear and Crenshaw melon. They just feel so juicy-yet-elegant in the mouth. The burst of citrusy acidity on the finish keeps the palate refreshed and makes a perfect dinner companion with spicy Asian cuisine. $16
As mentioned above, New Zealand has built a reputation for producing reasonably priced and reliable pinot noir wines, but the 2018 Wairau River Pinot Noir just might have you looking at the price tag twice.
This sumptuous red wine features a lifted aroma of ripe cherries and spice. The body is soft and generous with delicate red berry notes shadowed by subtle toasty oak. Fine, ripe tannins provide weight and structure, resulting in a long, seamless finish. $18
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