WASHINGTON — Winter has come to Washington, and it is definitely cold outside.
On the bright side, this wintry weather is the perfect excuse to start cracking open the big red wines. Not that I am a glutton for punishment, mind you, it’s just that I look forward to the cold weather each year so that I can open and enjoy some of the more hearty red wines.
Cold weather is the perfect opportunity to enjoy rich, powerful wines that are more at home fireside than poolside. And cold nights provide a wonderful excuse to invite friends over for leisurely dinners featuring crusty bread and hearty fare.
Like wool scarves and flannel sheets, big red wines provide warmth and contentment. Paired with comfort foods such as beef stews or flavorful chili, big red wines can be elevated into legendary partnership status akin to Laurel and Hardy, Donnie and Marie or, my personal favorite, Ben and Jerry. But some big red wines can definitely stand on their own merit, relying on a chewiness that shuns company and demands the spotlight all to itself.
Either way, big red wine season is finally here and I, for one, am a happy camper.
The requisite characteristics that I look for in winter reds are simple but precise. They include plenty of rich, jammy black fruits, tannic grip and structure. Most of these wines will generally benefit from an hour or two in a decanter in order to soften the tannins just enough to play well with the acidity and the fruit.
Here are some of my favorite winter reds:
When it comes to big red wine grapes that warm the heart, zinfandel is the king of heat, and Paso Robles, in the heart of California, is quickly gaining a well-deserved reputation as a major wine-producing region for big zins. The 2012 Four Vine Winery Zinfandel “Biker” from Paso Robles is made from a combination of low-yield vines from the legendary Dusi and Preston zin vineyards, and exhibits the traditional trademark notes of spicy earth on both the nose and the palate. Additional flavors of dark cherry, black raspberry and cocoa glide across the tongue with charm and complexity. The notes of melted black licorice on the smooth finish make this a tempting choice to pair with a dense chocolate brownie. $18
You can always depend on the Rhone Valley of France to help heat up your wineglass. The 2014 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Rouge is the gateway wine to luxury and warmth with an approachable price tag. This Crozes-Hermitage Rouge relies on syrah to power its spicy frame and rustic style. A fragrant bouquet of black raspberries and black olives is just a teaser for the marvelous flavors of blackberry, cassis and roasted coffee that coat the tongue. This is an intense-yet-charming wine that is tamed by the well-rounded finish. A wine to enjoy with roast duck. $25
Drinking like wines twice the price, the 2012 Worthy “Sophia’s Cuvee” Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley is a serious winter red wine made by local wine distributor-turned-producer, Gus Kalaris, who crafts this big red from a blend of declassified lots of cult wines from vineyards throughout Napa Valley. Cabernet sauvignon takes the lead with other varietals, such as cabernet franc, merlot, petite verdot and malbec occasionally thrown in for good measure. Scents of smoked meats, spicy plums and vanilla tantalizes the nose but belies the truly powerful flavors of black raspberries, black cherries, plums and tobacco on the beautifully structured frame. Silky notes of chocolate and herbs filter in on the long finish. A perfect companion for cassoulet. $30
Tempranillo, the traditional varietal from Spain, was made for winter weather. The 2012 Dominio de Pingus “Flor de Pingus” Ribera del Duero, from Ribera Del Duero, Spain, is produced using tempranillo fruit from 16 plots of vineyards in La Horra, which are vinified in small lots. Warm, inviting scents of crème de cassis, espresso and smoked meats meld together on the nose. Flavors of black plums, toasty oak and black licorice wrap themselves around the tongue like a cashmere sweater while notes of blackberry cobbler simmer on the rich, full palate. The Flor de Pingus is the second label for Dominio de Pingus, one of the most sought-after and one of the most expensive wines from Spain, so it is a relative bargain at $80.
