Wine of the Week: Celebrating 45 years of Dry Creek Vineyards

WASHINGTON — The world looked very different 45 years ago.

The Dow Jones closed above 1,000 for the first time, U.S. swimmer Mark Spitz won a record seven gold medals at the Summer Olympics in Munich, “The Godfather” was the hit movie, HBO launched as the first subscription cable service, Apollo 17’s Harrison Schmitt and Eugene Cernan were the last men to walk on the moon, Atari kicked off the first generation of video games with “Pong,” and David Stare built the first winery in the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma since Prohibition.

Dry Creek Valley is located in the northern portion of Sonoma County where it lies just to the west of the Alexander Valley. This little gem is only 16 miles long and two miles at its widest point. It extends from Lake Sonoma at the northwestern point and runs southeasterly where it joins the Russian River Valley at the city of Healdsburg.

The valley is blessed with hot summer days, cool evening breezes from the ocean, and varied topography containing an exceptional range of soil types. This combination creates a diverse range of growing areas – or micro-terroir — that is an ideal location to cultivate a portfolio of approachable wines.

Italian immigrants were the first to settle into the Dry Creek Valley in the latter part of the 19th century where they reserved the fertile valley floor for cash crops (wheat, apricots, prunes, etc.) while relegating the rocky slopes to the Zinfandel grapevines from which they made wine for family use. However, the rich and spicy wines quickly gained their own reputation, and by the late 1800s, wine production became a flourishing industry of its own. Unfortunately, Prohibition (1920-1933) nearly destroyed the wine industry in the valley.

But in 1972, that all changed. After finishing his education at MIT and Northwestern University, a young Stare packed up his family and set sail to California to pursue his winemaking dream. He made port in Sonoma County, where he bought 55 acres of prune orchards in the Dry Creek Valley region. Being a big believer in education, David quickly dropped anchor at the University of California, Davis to learn as much as he could about growing grapes and making wine.

Not to be told it couldn’t be done, Stare decided that the Dry Creek Valley was perfect for establishing the region’s first new winery in nearly 50 years. He ripped out the existing prune orchard and planted Sauvignon Blanc instead of the popular Chardonnay. Friends thought he was crazy. Neighbors stared in disbelief. But time proved him right, and now the original 55 acres has grown into 10 estate vineyards, totaling 200 acres and 11 different varietals.

It has now been 45 years since the first vineyard was planted. Today, David’s daughter, Kim Stare Wallace, is now the one hoisting the sails at the winery, along with her spouse Don Wallace. She continues to lead with a “no compromises” philosophy, producing appellation-focused, terroir-driven, varietal-defining wines.

By now, you’ve probably noticed a few references to sailing. That’s because the Stare family has what can be mildly described as a passion for sailing — right down to the colorful and distinctive sailboats that grace the labels on every one of their wines. The fleet of wines from Dry Creek Vineyards has something for everybody and every season, so trim your corkscrew, hoist your glass, and enjoy these wines on your next regatta:

Let’s start with the wine that started is all, Sauvignon Blanc. The 2016 Dry Creek Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc cuts down the heat of summer faster than a cold shower. It offers up scents of lemon/lime and honey dew melon on the nose and crisp, refreshing flavors of Meyer lemon, tangerine and nectarine in the mouth. The abundant acidity keeps the flavors bright and focused all the way through, from first sip to finish. $20

Kim Stare Wallace once told me that their flagship wine, the 2014 Dry Creek Vineyards Estate Fume Blanc DCV3, took its name from “a bookkeeping journal entry and the name just stuck.” With 16 acres devoted to this unique vineyard, it is the backbone of the DCV Sauvignon Blanc program. Its refreshing scents of citrus, grapefruit and grassy notes shine on the aromatic nose. Flavors of peach and nectarine are key players on the front of the palate, while notes of lemon and lime buoy up the crisp finish. It has great acidity and balance with a touch of minerality, which really adds an interesting layer of complexity. $28

How old is an Old Vine when it comes to Zinfandel? For the 2014 Dry Creek Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel, the average vine age is 85 years. The wine is mostly Zinfandel (78%) with a bit of Petite Sirah (19%) and a touch of Carignane (3%) blended in for structure. The nose reveals black plum and chocolate with a hint of cinnamon. It is a well-balanced combination of blackberry, cherry and plum that plays out over the entire tongue with a finish of mocha. $32

While Dry Creek Valley is known for Zinfandel, the 2013 Dry Creek Vineyards The Mariner proves that Bordeaux varietals can share the fame as a traditional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Known in California as a meritage (rhymes with heritage), this wine is smooth and seductive. Aromas of plum, dark cherry, mocha and dried herbs waft up from the glass. Flavors of blackberry fruit, cassis, rich cocoa and coffee swaddle the front of the tongue while the dark cherry and blackberry notes echo from the nose and slide in on the back. Juicy and deep, this wine stays bright and lively thanks to smooth tannins on the well-balanced finish. $45

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