Wine of the Week: Going Greek for the holidays

WASHINGTON — Greece is considered by many to be the birthplace of wine.

In addition to having the oldest documentation of a deity dedicated to wine, Dionysus, there is archaeological evidence to support the theory that wine was an important part of Greek life dating back more than 4,000 years. Wine was not only a staple of the daily Greek diet, but it also played a viable role in the Greek economy as well as its cultural celebrations.

The earliest evidence of wine production was found on the island of Crete. Pieces of ceramic vessels, called amphora, have been shown to date back to the third century, BC. These amphorae, used to transport wine for trade and storage, were made of different shapes and sizes to identify their city of origin, and incorporated an elaborate labeling system similar to the labels we use on wine bottles today.

As their empire expanded, the Greeks introduced winemaking techniques throughout their Mediterranean settlements in Italy, France and Spain. But they also quickly realized how important it was to protect the authenticity of wines produced in specific regions. They developed a basic “appellation d’origine controlee” system to protect the value of wines from particular regions and harsh penalties were imposed on counterfeiters.

Today, some of the more than 300 indigenous Greek grape varieties can be found growing throughout the wine producing world. In addition, the bright sunny climate and fertile soils found throughout Greece provide an ideal environment for popular nonnative varietals that many new winemakers are beginning to use.

I like bubbles to get any party started — particularly during the holiday season. The Nonvintage Amalia Brut hails from the region of Tegea in Peloponnese. The estate’s vineyards boast sandy clay soil and enjoy cold winters and warm, dry summers. Made in the Methode Traditionelle from 100 percent Moschofilero grape, this sparkler features fine bubbles that carry aromas of rose petal, brioche and honey to the surface. Flavors of crisp apples, nectarines and tangy citrus are lifted by refreshing acidity on the finish. $20

The Boutari estate in Northern Greece is home to the winery’s oldest vineyard, where the high altitudes and cool temperatures of the Vermion Mountains create perfect conditions for growing the native Xinomavro grape. The 2004 Boutari Grande Reserve tames the prominent tannins found in this varietal with barrel and bottle aging. It sports a bouquet of black plums and tobacco on the nose and stylish flavors of blackberry, dark plum and cherry that dominates the palate. Lovely notes of vanilla mingle with firm tannins and solid acidity to provide remarkable balance and structure on the lingering finish. $22

Nemea is celebrated as the best region in Greece for growing and producing wines made with Agiorgitiko grapes. The 2014 Tselepos Driopi Nemea Agiorgitiko Reserve has a very complex nose of baked cherries, tobacco, cigar box and turmeric spices with hints of blueberry jam. It is velvety smooth on the palate, with a rich, suave texture and a lovely balancing acidity. It is ready to drink upon release thanks to the luscious, velvety finish. $32

The 2015 Santo Assyrtiko Yannis is from the beautiful island of Santorini. This dry white wine is made from mountain grown Assyrtiko grapes that thrive in the volcanic soil that makes up most of the island. It features bracing notes of citrus fruit and volcanic minerals on the front of the palate. The medium-based acidity keeps the finish light and crisp, with notes of grapefruit and nectarine the shine on the back of the palate. It is a wonderful alternative to unoaked chardonnays. $18

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