WASHINGTON — On a recent trip to Portugal, I discovered what many savvy wine consumers across the pond have known for decades: Portugal makes some mighty fine wines for its local kitchen tables at basement prices. And some of the best values are the delicious and crisp white wines that we can now get on our tables here in America.
Portugal, a thin strip of land roughly the size of Indiana, is located on the Iberian Peninsula in Western Europe. Spain literally wraps around the northern and eastern borders. Due west lies the cool Atlantic Ocean, while the temperate Gulf of Cadiz forms the southern border.
Although grapes are grown throughout the country, the most notable wine producing districts are located inland, away from the maritime influences of the Atlantic. Concentrating on the red wine producing regions and starting in the north, the Douro Valley is best known for growing Touriga Francesa and Touriga Nacional, the two main varietals found in Port wines.
The Portuguese love to entertain, and starting off with a cold glass of sparkling wine is a tradition in many households — including mine. The Nonvintage Fita Azul Attitude Reserva Bruto Espumante is simply a fun wine to sip. The effervescent bubbles carry notes of crisp green apple and nectarine, buoyed by a bright finish featuring a pop of lemon-limeade acidity. Serve it well-chilled on its own or pair it with soft cheeses. $12
South of Douro, in the center of the country, is the Dâo region, known for making distinctive red wines from several grape varietals, including the familiar Touriga Nacional as well as a plethora of native varietals such as Tinto Câo, Bastardo and Jaen.
On the south side of the Tagus river, which bisects the country on its way to Lisbon, is the bountiful wine region of Ribatejo. Further south, in succession, are the Alentejo and Algarve regions. These last three areas are where the new generation of winemakers are starting to push the envelope by experimenting with both traditional and international blends. Our story today focuses on a producer from the Ribatejo region.
The Alentejo region consists of eight geographically diverse sub-appellations, each with its own Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOC — also known as appellations in the US), including coastal, plains and mountainous growing regions. The best known regions are Borba, where limestone soils favor bright, citrusy focused white wines like the 2015 João Portugal Ramos Vila Santa Loios Branco. Made from a blend of indigenous white varietals (50 percent Rabo de Ovelha and 50 percent Roupeiro), has a round mouthfeel similar to a Roussane (French Rhone varietal). The nose offers stone fruit scents of nectarine and white peaches. In the mouth, flavors of ripe peach and pear are highlighted by notes of lime that linger on the finish. Try it with grilled shrimp. A steal at $9
The wines produced in the Lisbon region — known as Lisboa — are some of the best examples of Portuguese white winemaking. Not only are these wines versatile, but they pair beautifully with food or can be enjoyed on their own. Best of all, like the 2014 Quinta de Chocapalha Arinto Branco, made from 100 percent Arinto. The bright palate of citrus and peaches play well off the tangy lime-laden finish. Mineral undertones provide a sound body for the wine and a solid foil for crab or shrimp salad. $12
While the main wine-producing region of the Douro Valley, located in the northern part of the country, is best known for growing the red grapes that make go into the famous Port wines, there is plenty to love about the white wines from the region as well. The 2015 Quinta do Passadouro Passadouro Branco is a remarkably sophisticated and refreshing blend of Viosinho, Rabigato and Codega, offering up aromas of honeysuckle and white flowers. The beautiful mouthfeel supports ripe flavors of white peach, nectarine, roasted almonds and a touch of vanilla. The pretty finish has a bit of weight, so it could easily hold up to grilled prawns or scallops. $24
