WASHINGTON — Last week’s snowstorm gave a new meaning to the old adage, “Any port in a storm.” Well, not exactly a port of call. More like a port wine.
During the storm, I smartly hunkered down and took advantage of tasting through a backlog of wine samples that had been piling up in my tasting queue faster than the snow on my deck. Of course, given the cold, snowy days — and nights — the port wines somehow made it up to the front of the line, where they proved to be worthy indoor companions for the conditions outside. After all, port, that delicious elixir from Portugal, has warmed countless souls for centuries.
It all began in the 17th century, when Great Britain declared war on France, thus cutting off its supply of fine wine. The British promptly turned to Portugal, where the decision was made to add brandy to barrels of wine during fermentation in order to keep it fresh for its long journey down the Douro River to the port town of Oporto, and then back to England and Scotland.
This “fortification” created a sweet wine, thanks to the abundant residual sugars, whose noticeable fruit was kept in check by the high alcohol levels — perfect for a chilly day.
It is important to note that “port” wine actually denotes a place of origin and a type of designation, not a specific varietal. The Douro region, where the port grape varietals are grown, hugs the formidable Serra do Marao mountain range, which begins 40 miles from the shore and races up to the Spanish boarder, almost 100 miles away.
Its widest point is no more than 16 miles across. The rocky terrain provides plenty of stress for the three major grape varietals: Tinto Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca.
As for the types of port, there are several different styles, including a white port that is gaining popularity here in the states. All port wines are a blend of several varietals and are crafted by each “house” to achieve a particular style, similar to the practice in Champagne. Here are four of the most popular types of red Port wines:
Tawny ports
These are non-vintage wines that are aged in wooden casks and are the product of several blends (to maintain a consistent “house” style) — a type of “solera.” They are generally older and more elegant than their younger ruby sibling. This style provides the perfect foil as either a dessert wine or an aperitif. The Non-Vintage Taylor Fladgate Special Tawny is wonderfully versatile. It offers deep, toasty nut and roasted aromas with vanilla bean on the nose. The palate enjoys waves of citrus, preserved lemon, roasted walnuts and brown sugar notes. The finish adds caramel and toffee. I like it served slightly chilled with an apple tart. $14
Port wines with indication of age
These are usually tawny wines that are better-than-average, as approved by the Port Wine Institute. They will denote a bottling date along with an indication of their character by the age on the label: 10 years old, 20 years old, 30 years old and 40 years old. They have a tendency to possess more mellow fruit characteristics and have a smoother mouthfeel to them than the aforementioned tawny.
Dow’s 10 Year Old Tawny is dry and structured, with mature flavors of baked apricot, dried mango, dark chocolate and almond-toffee notes. The finish has refreshing acidity. $25
The Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny is a step up the scale from 10 Year Old Tawny. It is finely balanced, elegant wine, featuring dark deep, intense flavors of orange cream, glazed apricot, caramel, ripe black fruit, and a delicious fresh finish. Easy to find and would pair well with pecan pie. $55
L.B.V. (late-bottled vintage) port
This is also the port of one single harvest. It is produced in a good quality year from a single harvest, they are bottled approximately between the fourth and sixth year of age. The label will show not only the year of the harvest, but also the date of bottling and the designation L.B.V. Try the 2009 Dow’s Late Bottled Vintage Port: It’s loaded with flavors of spiced red cherry and plum, seasoned with a good twist of black cassis. This is an excellent introduction for new port drinkers and would work magic with a wedge of Stilton blue cheese. $21
Vintage
Vintage Ports account for only 2 percent of all port wine produced. They are highly regulated, including the obscure law that they must be bottled between “July 1st of the second year following the harvest and June 30th June of the third year, counting from the year of the harvest.” Port houses do not declare a vintage every year but only in the best vintages. The label will simply say “vintage.” They usually possess a deep, rich, red color and are full-bodied. There is no better way to spend time after a big meal than with a roaring fire, a good book and a glass of vintage port. Because vintage ports develop house style, most people have a favorite. Wine Spectator magazine said that the 2011 vintage is, “considered the best vintage in the last 20 years.” Of the offerings from that vintage, I prefer the 2011 Fonseca. Wine Spectator said that this wine is “massive, concentrated and powerful … offers lush, heady flavors of dark plum, blackberry and cherry tart, with touches of anise. Shows plenty of grip as well, featuring a long, rich finish of dark chocolate, toffee and cream.” I concur. $90
