A lot of business, large and small, are feeling the unprecedented sting of the pandemic, and wineries across the country are no exception.
In mid-March, out of an abundance of caution, California Gov. Gavin Newsom ordered the closure of all winery tasting rooms, and tour and winery restaurants shut down. Similar mandates have been implemented for wineries in the D.C. region.
While the pandemic has done little to affect the actual vineyard side of the business — grape vines are just starting their journey to producing fruit — it has devastated wine tourism and sales.
It is estimated that the wine industry in California alone, including wine sales and wine-related tourism, contributes approximately $57 billion to the state’s economy, according to a 2015 report by the Wine Institute, a public policy advocacy organization representing over 1,000 California wineries and affiliated businesses. In addition, the state’s wine business is responsible for about 325,000 jobs in California and 786,000 across the nation, The Los Angeles Times reported. That is a lot of jobs.
Most winemakers or winery owners told the newspaper that they supported closing tasting rooms and stopping tours. Some noted, with optimism, that they are still able to sell bottled wine on site, and continue winemaking operations. And that’s kind of what’s happening.
Wineries across the country are finding creative ways of getting by. Not necessarily thriving, but surviving.
For example, I receive several emails on a daily basis from wineries who are holding “virtual wine tastings.” Now these tastings can range from simply providing an online webinar where subscribers can tune in to watch winemakers — and other experts — open bottles of their wines and wax poetically as they describe the nuances of aromas and flavors they detect in every sniff and sip. While it is fascinating that technology can allow us to see and hear these presentations, without smell-o-vision and taste-o-rama, it’s a bit like looking at a window display of bright, shiny objects, but we are not allowed to enter the store.
Another creative solution wineries are proffering are virtual wine tastings where wines are shipped directly to you and at an appointed time, you can open your wines and participate in a wine tasting led by someone from the winery in the comfort of your own home. While novel, it does create a couple of problems.
First, wines get bounced around during the shipping process and can create something called “bottle shock,” which could affect overall flavor of the wine (a nice two or three-day rest before opening the wine is usually the best remedy).
Second, not all states allow wines to be shipped into their states. I am currently hunkered down in Utah, a state that has very strict regulations banning wine shipments.
Lastly, more than a couple of bottles is a lot of wine to open and sample, particularly if you’re solo. While wine can last a few days after opening, I can only imagine that someone either overindulges or the unused wine is wasted. It’s probably best to do these types of tastings if you’re sheltering in place with other wine-lovers. Just saying …
Boutique wineries — those who only sell wines directly to consumers either through mailing lists or at the winery — are finding it tougher to manage business as usual. With people sheltering in place, there is not enough labor at the winery to get their wine club orders out the door and not many people are stopping by the winery to pick up wines. Many of the smaller wineries rely on wholesale business, where their wines are poured at events, such as weddings and conventions. Needless to say, they will struggle with excess inventory and reduced revenues.
However, many wineries are offering “curbside” pickup. You can simply call ahead or go online to place your order, then swing by the winery, pop your trunk and off you go. While you still have to physically get in your car and leave the relative safety of your abode, contact is minimized and wines are acquired.
All in all, the good news, if there is any, is that production will still continue. The grapes will grow and get harvested. And I don’t know if you have ever visited a winery, but I can tell you, they are some of the cleanest environments you will ever encounter.
So — assuming this pesky virus is still wreaking havoc in the fall — as long as winery workers practice physical distancing and proper hygiene, producing a new vintage of wine should be business as usual. It’s the selling of the wine that will be a challenge for the entire industry for the foreseeable future.
Challenges abound in this new normal, but with a little patience, a bit of ingenuity and a dedication to flattening the curve, we can all get most of what we need, just not all of what we want … yet.
Drink well and stay safe!
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