WASHINGTON — Winter is slowly creeping toward Washington, and as the thermometer begins its descent in to chilly territory, the first thing that most wine lovers think of — well, the first thing I think of — is reaching for a big red wine.
After all, big red wines are the perfect accompaniment for cold-weather fare, such as stews and chili. And they can be tongue-warming good on their own as well.
But what about white wines for winter weather? Most consumers usually think of them as companions for warmer weather, but many white wines on the market can be enjoyed all year long and are even more enjoyable when the temperature scoots down a notch or two.
Like wool scarves and flannel sheets, big white wines can provide warmth and contentment. Pair them with comfort foods, such as white bean chili or roasted chicken; and you have a match similar to red wine and steak.
The essential characteristics that I look for in winter whites are relatively straightforward; it’s really all about structure, structure, structure. I like white wines that carry a lot of weight and density in the mouth and fruit notes centered around pear, peach, roasted nuts and tropical fruits. These are typically characteristics of white Rhone varietals, such as Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne, but can also include dense Semillon and creamy chardonnays.
Here are a few of my favorite examples of perfect white wines for a winter evening.
One of my favorite winter whites is the 2016 d’Arenberg Hermit Crab Viognier/Marsanne Blend, from the McLaren Vale region of Australia. The wonderfully rich wine is packed with stone fruit characteristics (think ripe peach and nectarine), orange marmalade, honeysuckle and white flowers. It would pair beautifully with roasted pork loin. $15
The French cousin of the aforementioned wine is the 2015 Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Petite Ruche Blanc from the Rhone Valley region. “Petite Ruche” — which means “little beehive” — takes its name from the vineyard’s prior incarnation, when it was used for beekeeping. Today, the vineyard grows Marsanne grapes that produce a wine with a beautiful floral nose, featuring scents of acacia and honeysuckle. The mouthfeel is juicy and rich, featuring ripe pear and notes of canned peaches. The structure is wonderfully unctuous for a wine at this price. Pair it with grilled halibut or seared scallops. $25
For an American version of the white Rhone, try the 2016 Stolpman Vineyards Roussane Ballard Canyon from the Central Coast of California. It displays a characteristic floral nose with aromas of orange blossom and white flowers. Hefty flavors of ripe peach, pear, pineapple have a beautiful weight in the mouth. The wine has excellent balance and complexity, and notes of honey on the back of the finish keep you coming back for another sip. Perfect with French onion soup. $23
While I may like to enjoy my chardonnays naked (unoaked) in the summer, I want them fully clothed in oak for winter consumption. The oak aging gives chardonnay wines their depth and richness. The 2015 Beringer Private Reserve chardonnay is an excellent example of a rich, complex style that bends toward sumptuous without being excessive. It has layers of juicy pear, green melon and Calimyrna fig on the front of the palate. Notes of roasted hazelnut and a touch of baking spices glide in on the remarkably balanced finish. It is a big white wine in search of a lobster dinner. $35
