WASHINGTON — Last week I wrote about quality California chardonnay wines that don’t break the bank. After finishing the piece, a friend of mine said, “Sure, it’s easy to write about white wine in that price range, but I bet you couldn’t do it for pinot noir!”
Challenge accepted. (I already had that very same thought in mind while I was researching the chardonnay theme. )
It turns out — for the most part — that the very same wineries in California that produce value-centric chardonnay also have a hand in making pinot noir, and usually at a decent price. It appears that the picky pinot grape likes the same type of climate and terroir where chardonnay thrives. That would certainly explain why the Burgundy region of France produces both varietals within proximity of each other.
But while chardonnay is a relatively easy grape to cultivate, there is a different set of challenges when it comes to offering the red wine counterpart. Many winemakers agree that the pinot noir grape is one of the most difficult varietals to grow and vinify, due in part to its thin skin and persnickety nature. That makes finding a quality pinot for less than $35 tough, particularly if the wine is aged in new French oak barrels that can cost upward of $1,000 per unit. The trick is finding a place where the finicky fruit likes to grow and thrive but not lose its pretty bouquet and gentle mouthfeel in the process. Fortunately, several of the California producers who have staked out vineyards in regions blessed with warm days and cool nights can cater to both chardonnay and pinot noir.
Here are several excellent pinot noir values available in our area.
Last week, I covered the Meiomi chardonnay from the Central Coast of California. The winery was originally founded by Joseph Wagner — son of Chuck Wagner of Caymus fame — with the goal of making both red and white wines that are balanced, complex and easy to drink. I would say that the 2015 Meiomi Pinot Noir is mission accomplished. It has a lovely perfume nose of ripe red raspberries, red plums and earthy aromas. The palate reveals a very straightforward arsenal of fresh red fruits, toasty oak and a hint of mocha on the supple, soft finish. $25
Another winery that I covered last week is the Nielson Winery, which sources its fruit for the Santa Maria Pinot Noir from the Santa Maria Valley. The region is one of California’s coolest appellations and boasts one of the longest growing seasons in the state. The cool nights and warm days are perfect for pinot noir grapes and you can taste the balance and elegance in the 2014 Nielson Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir. It offers aromas of roasted spices, red raspberries, lilacs and earth. Textured flavors of red berry fruit, cocoa nibs, black cherry and vanilla flows over the tongue. The finish is rich and silky, with supple acidity. $29
According to its website, the original owners of Wild Horse made their first wine in a plastic tub, stirring it with a baseball bat. Today, their techniques and their equipment are much better and the results can be appreciated in the 2014 Wild Horse Pinot Noir from the Central Coast of California. The wine starts off with a promising bouquet of lavender with hints of wild strawberry and boysenberry. The promise is delivered in the mouth where well-defined flavors of red berry fruit and cloves are buoyed by vibrant acidity that leads to a silky finish. $20
In 2005, entrepreneurs Tim Perr and Scott Knight pooled their resources to found a winery dedicated to producing small lots of artisan pinot noir that they loved to drink. They named their winery “Pali,” after their hometown of Pacific Palisades. The 2014 Pali Wine Company Huntington Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara County is full of pretty plum and spring strawberry aromas on the nose. The flavors of dark raspberry, bright cherry, wild strawberry and wet stone are well-balanced and nicely textured. The supple finish is simply delicious, with a touch of cinnamon for added charm. $25
