WASHINGTON — Turkish wines have come a long way, thanks, in part, to the passion and drive of Vinkara Winery founder, Ms. Ardic Gursel. Her dedication to Turkey’s indigenous grapes has led a revival in the Turkish wine community, as well as on the international stage. The grape varietals may be difficult to pronounce, but the wines speak for themselves.
Located five hours from Istanbul and surrounded by distant mountains, Vinkara’s 200 acres of vineyards are situated by the Kızılırmak River Basin just outside the quiet and humble village of Kalecik. Planted at 2,000 feet above sea level, Vinkara’s vineyards span rocky hills and plateaus strewn with sage trees and various other flora and fauna.
Warmed by a continental climate, Kalecik experiences cold, snowy winters and hot, dry summers due to its elevation and inland location. But the Vinkara vineyards experience a unique microclimate due to their proximity to the moderating Kızılırmak River and surrounding hills. The soils are composed of sand, clay and limestone — excellent for drainage — with high mineral and calcium content. Large diurnal temperature fluctuations in summer help enhance the balance of the fruit between ripeness and natural acidity.
But the driving force behind Vinkara’s wine is the vineyard’s guiding philosophy, which is spearheaded by the passion of producer Gursel: using the indigenous Anatolian grapes and introducing their unique tastes to the world by making wines that are ideally suited to their sites, soils and climate.
Narince, which means “delicately” and is pronounced “nah-rin-jay,” is a grape that is indigenous to Anatolia. The 2014 Vinkara Narince has a complex nose with scents of vanilla and spices combined with floral notes of white flowers, citrus and mineral highlights. On the palate, the wine is completely dry with flavors of peach, pear, orange-blossoms and lemon that all combine on a lingering finish. $15
Kalecik Karası — pronounced “kah-le-djic car-ah-ser” — is one of the three most important red grape varieties in Turkey. It produces a dry red wine made from grapes that are indigenous to Anatolia. The 2012 Vinkara Kalecik Karası Reserve offers up a bouquet full of red fruit interwoven with hints of baking spices, vanilla and cocoa. On the palate, the wine is fruit-driven by flavors of raspberries, cherries and strawberries and is balanced by the abundant acidity that comes with the big diurnal temperature swings. The finish is soft and smooth, and somewhat reminiscent of a village-cru red Burgundy. $25
Yaşasın — pronounced “yasha sihn” and when translated literally means “long live!”— is the first natural sparkling wine produced in Turkey using the traditional méthode Champenoise, from the red Kalecik Karası grape and processed as a white wine (blanc de noirs). The 2013 Vinkara Yaşasın is remarkably sophisticated for such a young wine. It has sustained aromas of cherry, strawberry and tangerine, which gradually layers with the fragrance of warm bread dough and toasted almond. The palate is bright on entry, with lush flavors of Rainier cherry, juicy orange and wild berry. The wine boasts a finish with crisp mouthwatering acidity that is long and lingering and bubbles that sweep the tongue like a broom. $45
Boğazkere — pronounced “bow-aahz-keh-rah” — is another important red grape varietal in the Kalecik region. The 2011 Vinkara Boğazkere Reserve was aged for 30 months in château-style French Burgundy barrels and then further aged in the estate’s wine caves after bottling. It has an intense ruby color with a garnet rim. The bouquet commands attention with scents of roasted meat and dark red fruit. The intense flavors of black plum and black raspberry are accented by notes of black licorice and cherry liqueur. The long balanced finish offers hints of chocolate and blackberry jam. $30
Editor’s Note: The price of the 2013 Vinkara Yaşasın has been updated to $45 a bottle.
